A guide to Toledo or useful information for preparing your trip. Getting to Toledo from Madrid

Toledo is the former capital of Spain, located about an hour's drive from Madrid. If you have at least one free day while traveling around Spain, then be sure to visit Toledo. The city is incredibly beautiful and organic, and there are plenty of attractions here. I have collected practical information in the form of a small guide that will be useful to those planning to visit Toledo.

How to get to Toledo from Madrid on your own

Toledo is located about an hour's drive south from Madrid, or more precisely, 71 km from the capital.

Traditionally, public transport from Madrid to Toledo is possible by bus or train.

To Toledo from Madrid by bus

The bus departs to Toledo from Madrid Plaza El?ptica station every half hour from 6-30 am to 11 pm. The station is located at the metro station of the same name (on the metro map we look south of the center, the intersection of gray (line No. 6) and green (line No. 11)).

The bus to Toledo arrives at the bus station, from which you can walk to the old town (Socodover Square), or you can take buses No. 5 and No. 12.

To Toledo from Madrid by train

The high-speed train to Toledo departs from Madrid's main station - Madrid-Atocha. The ticket can be bought online on the Spanish railway website - http://www.renfe.es/, costs 20 euros round trip. Trains run from 6:50 to 21:50.

Each method has its pros and cons. The train is faster, but more expensive. The bus station is closer to the city center, but the Toledo railway station itself is a valuable architectural monument.

What to see in Toledo. Top attractions in Toledo

I have put all the most important attractions of Toledo on the map. As you can see, in a day in Toledo you can hardly have time to see everything, thoughtfully and in order.

View Toledo on a larger map

Download Toledo tourist map with descriptions of attractions

Download a map of Toledo with attractions and tourist information centers

List of attractions in Toledo with a brief description

From my point of view, the El Greco Museum in Toledo is 100% a must-see.

A short video tour of the museum

The museum exhibits such famous works of El Greco as “Panorama of Toledo”, etc.

http://museodelgreco.mcu.es/


Cathedral of Toledo

The Cathedral of Saint Mary of Toledo is considered one of the most outstanding Gothic cathedrals in Spain. The cathedral dates back to the 13th century and is now the residence of the Archbishop of Toledo. Construction of the Cathedral began in 1226 during the reign of Ferdinand III, and was completed only in the 15th century. The cathedral was built literally “on the bones” of a Moorish mosque.

It is definitely worth going inside the Cathedral, because the stained glass windows, wooden altar, frescoes and paintings are extremely beautiful. In addition, within the walls of the temple you will find paintings by such famous artists as Goya, Van Dyck, Zurbaran, Titian, Rubens, Bassano, Morales, Caravaggio, and 16 paintings of the figures of the apostles by El Greco.

The Cathedral in Toledo is considered the main temple of Spain, because many events are connected with it. Toledo can safely be called the capital of the country's Catholic faith.

Opening hours: except Sunday from 10-00 to 18-00

Calle Cardenal Cisneros s/n 45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
http://www.catedralprimada.es

Toledo City Hall

Opposite the cathedral is the town hall - a beautiful building with a small park and colorful flowers. The town hall building was designed by the famous architect Juan Herrera, who designed the Escorial. The building is characterized by symmetry and Tuscan columns representing Italian classicism. The building has a local tourist office where you can get a map of the city.

Santa Cruz City Museum
The city museum is the official younger brother of the Prado; some of the paintings by El Greco, Goya, Ribera, Lucas Jordan and others are stored here. In addition, the museum halls display exhibits dating back to the Roman period, the Visigoths, Arabs, and Mukhedars. There is even a mammoth skull. Previously, this building housed a hospital.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 10-00 to 18-30, Sunday from 10-00 to 14-00

Calle Miguel de Cervantes, 3 45001 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)

Church of St. Thomas

This small church contains El Greco's most famous painting, The Burial of the Count of Orgaz, painted in 1586 in a very large format (460 cm x 360 cm). Even the painting alone is worth going to church.

Opening hours: from 10-00 to 17-45

Plaza del Conde s/n 45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
www.santotome.org

Victorio Macho Museum

The Victorio Macho Museum is located in Plaza Victorio Macho. Victorio Macho was a Spanish sculptor who lived until 1966. He built his house and workshop on the edge of a cliff, with a breathtaking view of the river and the hills on the other side of the river. There is a nice garden with his sculptures on the premises. Worth a visit if only for the beautiful observation deck.

Opening hours: Monday to Saturday from 10-00 to 19-00, Sunday from 10-00 to 15-00

Plaza de Victorio Macho 2 45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
www.realfundaciontoledo.es

Alcazar and military museum

The Alcazar is a large stone fortress and palace on the highest point in Toledo. The palace was never inhabited by Spanish kings because before it was finished, Madrid became the capital of the country. Later the building was used as a prison and barracks. The palace was destroyed and rebuilt in 1940. The Alcazar now houses the National Army Museum.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Sunday from 11-00 to 17-00, closed on Monday.

Alf?reces Provisionales, s/n45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
http://www.museo.ejercito.es/
Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes
The monastery was built by Queen Isabella as a mausoleum for the royal family and dedicated to John the Evangelist, whom she loved and revered very much. However, after construction was completed, according to her decision, the mausoleum was moved to Granada. Now it is a functioning monastery and one of the main attractions of Toledo.

Museum of Visigothic Culture

The museum contains a collection of treasures and relics of the Visigoth civilization, which was in the center of Toledo.

Opening hours: Tuesday to Saturday from 10-00 to 14-00 and from 16-00 to 18-30, Sunday from 10-00 to 14-00. Monday is a day off.

Calle San Rom?n s/n 45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)

Tavera Hospital

The museum is located in the building of a former hospital. The façade is designed in the Renaissance style and deserves special attention. Inside you can see the marble tomb of Cardinal Tavera, paintings by El Greco, Titian, as well as furniture and luxury items of that time. In addition, within the walls of the museum you can visit an ancient pharmacy with a rich collection of exhibits.

Opening hours: entrance with guided tour daily from 10:15 - 11:00 - 11:45 - 12:30 - 13:30 - 15:15 - 16:00 - 16:45 - 17:30

Calle Cardenal Tavera, 2 45003 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
http://es.fundacionmedinaceli.org/monumentos/hospital/index.aspx

El Cristo de la Luz Mosque
It was built in 999, but already in the 12th century it became a Christian church. Surprisingly, the structure has survived since then and has never been destroyed.

Calle Cristo de la Luz, 22 45002 Toledo (Castile-La Mancha)
Routes around Toledo
I am posting routes around Toledo that I managed to find on the Internet (source: http://www.toledo-travelguide.com/).

Route through the Jewish part of Toledo


1. Gate of El Cambron

2. Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

3. Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca

4. Museum of Victorio Macho

5. Synagogue of Tr?nsito and the Sephardic Museum

6. El Greco Museum

7. Church of Santo Tome and The Burial of Lord of Orgaz

8. Viewpoint of Virgen de Gracia

9. Bridge of San Martin

Renaissance Toledo Route


1. Hospital of Tavera

2. Bisagra Gate

3. Church of Santa Leocadia

4. Monastery of Santo Domingo el Antiguo

5. Church of San Roman

6. Monastery of San Clemente

7. Monastery of San Pedro Martir and University of Castilla-La Mancha

8. Church of Los Jesuitas (Church of San Ildefonso)

9. Monastery of Santo Domingo el Real

10. Monastery of Santa Clara

11. Zocodover Main Square

12. City Museum of Santa Cruz

13. Alcazar – castle and military museum

Route through Islamic Toledo


1. Gate of King Alfonso VI

2. Church of Santiago del Arrabal

3. Valmardon Gate

4. El Sol Gate

5. El Cristo de la Luz Mosque

6. Mosque of Tornerias

7. Plaza Mayor

8. Residence of the Toledo Cattlemen's Society Posada de la Hermandad

9. Church of San Justo

10. Church of San Lucas

11. Church of San Miguel

12. Alcazar – castle and military museum

Route around the Toledo Cathedral


1. Alfonso VI Gate

2. Hostal del Cardenal (patio)

3. Palace of El Nuncio

4. Colegio de Doncellas (exterior view)

5. Church of Santa Eulalia

6. Palace Lorenzana

9. Convent of Santa Isabel

10. Palace of King Don Pedro (fa?ade)

11. Church of San Andres

13. Colegio de Infantes (building façade)

14. Cathedral

How to get around Toledo

In Toledo, of course, you need to walk, enjoy the beauty of the streets and buildings, but there are still places where it is better to get there.

You can buy a day ticket (9 euros) for the City Tour tourist bus

Tourist bus route download

In general, if you want to see the center and main attractions of the city, then this can be done perfectly on foot. But you can get to the observation deck, which is located on the other side of the Tagus River, by regular bus No. 71, which runs every hour from the main square of Toledo, Plaza de Zocodover.

In addition to the tourist bus, there is a tourist tram around Toledo. I don’t like this type of transport at all, but it is always crowded and in demand.

Tourist centers of Toledo

In Toledo there are tourist information centers where you can get a free map of the city and, if you're lucky, booklets describing the attractions. Therefore, do not rush to buy a card at the station; it is better to plan a trip to the tourist center first. Above is a link to a map of Toledo with information centers marked.

Near the Bisagra gate: Puerta de Bisagra, s/n - 45071 TOLEDO Not far from the Cathedral: Plaza del Consistorio 1 - 45071 TOLEDO On Merced Square: Plaza de la Merced, 4 - 45002 TOLEDO

Tourist Card Toledo Card

Like any self-respecting tourist city, Toledo has a special map for tourists. By purchasing a Toledo card, you receive a certain set of services for a certain period of time, for which you do not have to pay extra. There are 4 tourist card options in Toledo ( official site). I will not describe each of the packages, because everything is on the official website.

Whether it is profitable or not to buy a Toledo Card - decide for yourself, because it depends on what you will take to Toledo, where you will go, whether you need a tourist bus, etc. For myself, I decided that it was not profitable to buy a card, but if there were queues everywhere, then you could overpay, but not waste time buying tickets to museums and churches. It seems to me that this is what everything is designed for.

Useful films and books about Toledo

Book “Madrid and Toledo” Elena Nikolaevna Gritsak

The book “El Greco” by T. P. Kapterev

Film by El Greco Smaragdis Yanis (2009)

TV series "Toledo" (2012)

Useful websites for preparing your trip to Toledo

http://www.toledo-turismo.com/- website for tourists in Toledo

http://www.toledo-travelguide.com/- another site about Toledo

http://www.elgreco.ru/ - a good and informative site about El Greco

http://museodelgreco.mcu.es/ - official website of the El Greco Museum

http://www.toledocitytour.com/EN/ - Toledo tourist bus

http://www.toledo-travelguide.com/images/practical/horarios2.jpg- map of Toledo museum opening hours

Hotels and hostels in Toledo

Everyone goes to Toledo. To visit Spain and not visit the first capital of the country is blasphemy. The route here is very simple, takes little time, but is very popular and crowded. The city is good for a one-day excursion, so the task of getting from Madrid to Toledo will not pose any particular difficulties.

  • the distance between the two capitals is 70 km;
  • If you are not entirely familiar with the Spanish language, then it is better to arrive at the departure point in advance. Most likely, it will take time to “understand what’s what”;
  • It’s better to book a ticket online or by phone, then at the station you can simply redeem them from the machine. If you haven’t done this, go to the cashier. The queues are long, so it’s not a fact that you’ll leave right away. To avoid wasting time on downtime, take care of your travel documents on the eve of your trip.
  • In Toledo, immediately buy a card (2 euros). It is quite possible to explore the city on your own. Go straight to the mountain by bus and from there begin your acquaintance with historical values. This will make the journey less exhausting;
  • It is important not only to get there, but also to choose the day. Weekends are crowded with tourists, Monday is a day off in museums, the best days are Tuesday-Friday;
  • When traveling in summer, always take water with you. Otherwise, you risk spending a fortune on buying bottled moisture.

Route Madrid-Toledo

Transport links from Madrid to Toledo have been specially developed by the municipality for the convenience of tourists. All you have to do is choose the best option and go!

Train

The route is comfortable, fast, and profitable in all respects. By metro you need to arrive at Atocha station, where the train station of the same name is located. The AVANT high-speed train departs from here. It is better to check the schedule, approximately every 2 hours. You can get there in half an hour. The price is a little more than 20 euros. Trains run from 7 am to 10.00 pm.

If you have to use the services of a ticket office, then immediately go to an international one, not a suburban one, where they will sell you a ticket for a train at most.

At the same time, you can admire the beautiful Toledo station building, which in itself is an architectural value of the city. The trip will cost more than by bus, but it will save time. The trains are very comfortable, modern, and conducive to long journeys.

Take into account the time of passing control. Here it is enhanced, like at the airport.

Bus

This vehicle departs from Plaza Eliptica Station. The interval is 30 minutes. Here, solving the problem of how to get to Toledo from Madrid is simple - the first bus leaves at half past six in the morning, the last one at 23.00. The station itself is located at a metro station with the same name. There is no need to leave the metro - the ticket office and passenger boarding area are right here.

The final stop is the old town, which means you don’t even need to get there on foot. Price - about 10 euros. You can leave the city at any moment, thanks to frequent transport links. Of course, you will be tied to the train by the schedule.

On your way back, take bus 5, 61 from Zacodover Square to Renfe Station.

Automobile

One option is a taxi. The method is not cheap (about 120 euros), but certainly convenient. The Madrid-Toledo distance is covered in an hour. You can rent a car. If you took care of this at the very beginning of your tour around the country, then the issue is resolved - 6 liters of gasoline, and you are in Toledo!

Any method of transportation between cities is accessible and interesting. A trip from Madrid to Toledo is just another opportunity to enjoy the beauty of this incredibly fascinating country.

Medieval Toledo is located seventy kilometers south of the capital of Spain. The UNESCO World Heritage city is easily accessible from Madrid in the morning and back in the evening. Many tourists make this journey every day between the modern and former capital of the Spanish Kingdom. Most public transport routes from Toledo to other cities pass through Madrid.

On the map of Spain

The road to Toledo leads from Madrid to the southwest. The distance between the cities in a straight line is 65 kilometers, along transport routes - seventy or more. A dead-end railway line and highways lead to Toledo. There are no noteworthy sights on the way between the cities; it is impractical to get there with transfers.

How to get from Madrid to Toledo on your own

The journey will take from half an hour to two hours, if you choose from three main ways:

  • bus;
  • Railway;
  • automobile.

You can depart from Madrid from the city center or from its southern part. If your starting point is in the north, it may take extra time to get to the train station or bus station or to enter the ring road by car.

You can even get to Toledo by bicycle, in which case you will have to avoid highways and the travel time will be more than four hours. Unlike other methods, cycling requires a lot of preliminary preparation. Travelers who choose this method usually do not consider alternative modes of transport.

Bus service

The fastest way to cover the distance is by direct Alsa buses, which depart from the Plaza Eliptica station in Madrid and arrive at the Toledo bus station, located near the city center. Flights operate every fifteen minutes, travel time is from an hour to an hour and a half. The ticket can be purchased from a machine at the bus station; you will have to spend a little less than six euros for one-way travel on the Madrid - Toledo route.

How to get there by bus from Madrid South Bus Station may be of interest to those arriving there from other cities. Samar's alternative route may deviate from the main route, visiting small towns. For those traveling this way, the journey can take up to a little over two hours. This option is more expensive - a ticket costs six euros and eighty-one cents as of June 2018. Buses may end the route in the Toledo suburb of Asukaike, located five kilometers from the city, in which case you will have to take a local bus or walk.

There is another interesting way to get from Madrid to Toledo and back. This can be done with a bus tour. Schedules and prices can be checked at the nearest tourist office or found on the Internet. The Julia Tour tour bus departs daily at 8.45 am, the tour is conducted in English and Spanish and takes five hours.

High-speed train "Madrid - Toledo"

You can find out how to get by train from Madrid's Puerta de Atocha station to Toledo directly on the spot. Comfortable trains depart every hour from six or seven in the morning until eleven in the evening. Travel time is 33 minutes. The fare is twice as high as by bus - 12.9 euros (956 rubles). You can purchase a train ticket online on the Spanish Railways website using the interface in Russian. Advance ticket sales open two months in advance. There are vending machines and ticket offices at the station. You can carry three luggage bags with a total weight of up to twenty kilograms per passenger free of charge on the train.

Trains arrive at the station, located on the opposite bank of the Tagus River from the city center. One and a half kilometers to the center via the Arakiel Bridge can be covered on foot in about twenty minutes. Even though the journey from the station will take longer than the journey from the bus station, it is worth taking the train at least one way and visiting the beautiful station building in Toledo.

Travel by car

When driving, the end point of the route can be the Puerta de Bisagra in Toledo (Spain). How to get from Madrid to this point? You can calculate the route in advance using a navigator or online map. Once you arrive in Toledo, you can visit the nearby tourist office to pick up a map of the city and get information about interesting exhibitions and events.

The fastest route from the center of Madrid to Toledo is 72 kilometers along the A-42 road. If you choose regional roads, the journey will be ten to twenty kilometers longer. Speed ​​limits in Spain are 90 kilometers per hour outside built-up areas and 100 km/h on roads.

You can rent a car in Madrid. Some companies allow you to rent cars in other cities, in which case you won’t have to pay for parking, and you can get around Toledo on foot. When traveling with your own car, it is better to think in advance where to park; some hotels may have their own parking, free or for an additional fee.

Choosing the best route

A trip from the capital of Spain to Toledo can be made in an organized group or independently. The fastest way to cover the distance of seventy kilometers is by high-speed train. The journey will take from an hour to two in a comfortable bus; driving your own or rented car you can get there in about an hour. The cheapest way is by bus from Ecliptic Square. You can save on tickets if you purchase them in advance.

Those who appreciate Spanish painting should definitely go here: Toledo is the “city of El Greco”; the artist lived here for a long time, and many of his paintings are exhibited in the city museums.

Toledo stands on a rocky hill, the foot of which is washed by the Tagus River. Since the streets in Toledo are very narrow, short and confusing, for an independent walk we recommend purchasing (or borrowing for free from the tourist office) a detailed plan of the center of Toledo.

The city is surrounded by a fortification wall, its two largest buildings are the cathedral and the Alcazar, the castle of the Spanish kings. Not far from them is the main square of Toledo. Plaza de Zocodover (Socodover square). You will need at least one day to explore the city.

Tourist offices

CarreteradeMadrid

  • at the Puerta Nueva de Bisagra, 925 22 08 43,
  • July-Sept. Mon-Sat 9.00-19.00, Sun 9.00-15.00,
  • Oct.-June Mon.-Fri. 9.00-18.00, Sat 9.00-19.00, Sun 9.00-15.00, www.diputoledo.es

How to get to Toledo:

From Madrid you can get to Toledo faster by bus or. Since the launch of high-speed trains, travel time to Toledo has been reduced from an hour to 33 minutes, so now the train is faster and the bus is cheaper.

Railway station

Paseo de la Rosa, 2 (30 min walk from the center of Toledo);

  • to the old quarters of the car. No. 5,6. (Atocha) (33 minutes, 12.70€). .

Bus station

Avenida Castilla-La Mancha.

  • (Sur de Autobuses) (direct bus, once an hour, 1 hour 15 minutes, 6.75 €),
  • Guadalajara (2 hours 15 minutes, 10.75 €),
  • Albacete (2 hours 45 minutes, 15.85 €),
  • Ciudad Real (1 hour 45 minutes, 9 €), Cuenca (2 hours, 15.65 €).

History of Toledo

  • 192 BC Roman troops under the leadership of Marcus Publius conquered a large Celtic city, which was named Toletum.
  • V. The city is conquered by the Visigoths and becomes the capital of the Visigothic state on the Iberian Peninsula.
  • 587. The Second Ecumenical Council took place in Toledo, where the Visigothic king Recared converted to Christianity.
  • 711. Toledo is conquered by the Arabs, the city continues to be an important commercial and cultural center.
  • 829. The inhabitants of Toledo declared their city independent of the Arabs, which led to long wars and sieges.
  • 1085. The city was liberated from Arab rule by Christian troops under the leadership of Alfonso IV, King of Castile and Leon, and becomes the capital of Castile, its political and cultural center.
  • Here the Archbishopric of Toledo arises - the city turns into the center of Spanish Christianity.
  • XII- XIV. "Golden Age" of Toledo. Representatives of three cultures live in the city (Christians, Muslims, Jews), and a cathedral is being built.
  • 1930s. During the Civil War, Republican troops besieged Toledo, which was under Franco's control; During the shelling, the royal castle was significantly destroyed.
  • 1986. The entire city is included in the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage List.

Sights and route around Toledo

All the sights of Toledo can be seen in 1 day. True, you will have to stomp a lot, and also up hills. As a sightseeing option, you can use a tourist mini-train departing from the central square of Toledo: it is not so expensive, but it will take you along different banks, allowing you to admire the beauty of the city to your heart’s content.

Tourist route in Toledo

The best way to enter Toledo is through the northern gate Puerta Nueva de Bisagra(Puerta Nueva de Bisagra), one of the nine city gates that have survived to this day, this gate looks the most impressive. Erected in the 10th century. Arabs, the gate was rebuilt in the 16th century. and now consist of two parts at different times; this gate connected Toledo with the valley located in the north - the Arabs called it “red” (“sagra”) because of the reddish color of the earth.

Walking a little up Calle Real de Arrabal (Real de Arrabal street), you will see behind the fence an inconspicuous building of a mosque, converted into a Christian Temple of Cristo de la Luz(Mezquita Crista de la Luz, Cuesta de las Carmelitas Descalzos, 10, March 1-Aug 31, 10.00-19.00; September 1-February 28, 10.00-18.00). The very name of the temple contains a contradiction, easily explained by the history of this place.

The mosque is the only building in Toledo that has survived from Arab times. It was built around 999, and after the conquest of the city by Christians it was consecrated as a Christian church. The word “la luz - light” in the name is associated with an ancient legend, according to which for 400 years (about the length of Arab rule in Toledo) a walled-up Christ stood in the wall of this building with a burning lantern in his hands, thereby preserving Christian teachings. In the decoration of the church-mosque, inscriptions in Arabic script coexist with Visigothic frescoes. Be sure to walk around the mosque-temple and admire the garden, from where the city wall with gates and the surrounding streets are clearly visible.

To the east is Plazade Zocodover(Sokodover Square) is the main city square, where in the Middle Ages the market was noisy (the name of the square is translated from Arabic as “market”), and later public executions took place. In the 16th century arch. X. de Herrera proposed to build a large Plaza Mayor surrounded by arcades on the site of the Plaza de Zocodover, but the Catholic Church opposed this idea; Therefore, Toledo is one of the few cities in Spain that does not have a Plaza Mayor.

Next to the square is the Central Museum of Toledo Santa Cruz(Museo Santa Cruz). It occupies the building of a hospital founded in 1504 by Cardinal Mendoza. Pay attention to the Renaissance staircase and courtyard and, of course, to the museum’s rich collections - archaeological, sculptural, pictorial (several paintings by El Greco are kept here).

Alcazar Toledo

From the museum you can clearly see the one located just above Cuesta Carlos V (Carlos V street), alcazar. The strategic benefits of this place, which made it possible to control almost all approaches to the city, were appreciated by the Romans - they built a fortress on a steep cliff; then it was replaced by the fortifications of the Visigoths and Arabs. After the liberation of Toledo from the Arabs, the alcazar became a royal palace. The fortress was repeatedly subjected to sieges, shelling and destruction, and therefore was often rebuilt.

The current building appeared in the 16th century, and from the castle of the 13th century. Only the eastern towers have survived. After the capital was moved to Madrid, the Alcazar remained the residence of the kings of Spain. The last siege of the Toledo Alcazar took place during the Civil War of 1936 - Franco's supporters took refuge here. There is still a sign on the wall that says that Franco defeated the “hordes of communists” here. Nowadays the alcazar is located Museum of the Armed Forces.

Siege of the Alcazar

The garden of the Toledo Alcazar became one of the most famous episodes of the Civil War of 1936 - 1939. The majority of Toledo residents did not support Franco's military rebellion, but the officers who sided with him and their families took refuge in a secure alcazar. For several months they held the fortress, firing back from the Republicans advancing from all sides, and waited for the arrival of powerful reinforcements.

The Minister of War, who remained on the side of the Republic, desperately persuaded Colonel Moscardo, the head of the defenders, by telephone to surrender; The head of the Toledo police also threatened Moscardo by telephone to shoot his son, who was captured by the Republicans. Moscardo told his son to shout “Long live Spain!” and said that the Alcazar would never give up. A month later, young Luis Moscardo was shot, but his father managed to hold the fortress until the nationalists arrived. Due to numerous shelling and aerial bombardments, the royal palace of the Alcazar in Toledo was reduced to ruins; after the war it was rebuilt.

On the eastern side of the castle there is an observation deck with views of the Tagus River and Castle of San Servando(Castillo de San Servando), located on its other bank. The castle was built in the 1380s. Archbishop P. Tenorio and is now transferred to the university. The banks of the river are connected by an ancient Alcantara bridge(Puente de Alcantara). Built by the Romans, rebuilt by the Arabs in 866 and restored by King Alfonso X in 1257.

Cathedral of Toledo

A ten-minute walk from the alcazar to the east along narrow winding streets will lead to the main attraction of Toledo - the Cathedral cathedral It still remains a place of worship; during services, entrance to the temple is free; the rest of the time it functions as a museum (Mon-Sat 10.30-18.30, Sun 14.00-18.00). Here is the residence of the head of the Spanish church, the first cardinal. In the V-VI centuries. on the site of the cathedral stood a Visigothic church, which the Arabs turned into a mosque. After the Christian victory over the Moors at the Battle of Las Navas de Tolosa, King Alfonso VIII decided to build a grandiose temple in Toledo. However, its foundation took place only 15 years later; in 1226, the mosque was destroyed; The construction of the Gothic cathedral lasted almost three centuries.

Over time, the surrounding buildings completely hid the true dimensions of the temple - one of the largest in Spain (length 120 m, width 60 m and height more than 30 m); It’s difficult to see its side facades now. Only the main, western facade, above which rises a 90-meter bell tower, is open for viewing.

Portico del Perdon

Entrance to the temple Portico del Perdón(Portico del Perdon), decorated with stone carvings of biblical scenes; its name, "gate of forgiveness", symbolizes the remission of sins to all who pass through this gate. In the 17th century all the sculpture of the cathedral was restored.

Like most Gothic cathedrals in Spain, the temple in Toledo has three aisles with a large choir and altar. The interior of the main cathedral of the Catholic Church in Spain is unusually luxurious: every detail is worthy of careful inspection (therefore, we recommend picking up an audio guide to the cathedral or a detailed annotated plan at the ticket office). The retablo depicting 15 gospel scenes made of carved wood was created in 1498-1504. and is separated by an amazing openwork lattice. The cathedral treasury contains precious tabernacles (one of them was made in the 16th century from 18 kg of gold and 183 kg of silver), and the museum contains paintings by El Greco.

As you walk around the cathedral, stop in its eastern part, behind the back wall of the altar. For better illumination in 1720-1730. an oval window was broken in the ceiling, which the sculptor N. Tome designed as another altar - it is called Transparency, i.e. "transparent" altar. Indeed, the baroque imagination of the sculptor created an extraordinary work, filled with light, huge figures of the apostles and evangelists, cherubs, and bright frescoes. All this contrasts sharply with the Gothic severity of the rest of the temple, so N. Tome’s work caused a storm of criticism.

The western facade of the cathedral faces the Plaza del Consistorio (consistorio square); on the western side of the square stands archbishop's palace(Palacio Arzobispal), and from the south - the building city ​​hall).

Around the Toledo Cathedral:

After going around the city hall, exit to Calle Santo Tome (Santo Tome street), where two interesting buildings are located:

  • Taller de Moreau Palace(Taller de Moro, XIV-XV), now given over Arabic Museumart(Calle Taller de Moro, Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.30, Sun 10.00-14.00, closed Mon.),
  • and Renaissance Church of San Antonio(Iglesia de San Antonio, XVI).

Nearby, at the end of Calle San Juan de Dios (San Juan de Duce), is Church of Santo Tome(Iglesia de Santo Tome, 10.00-18.00). The temple itself is not of great interest, but a separate entrance on the south side leads to the chapel, where the ashes of Ruiz de Toledo, lord of the town of Orgaz, who died in 1323, rest. 250 years after the death of this noble citizen, who donated a lot to the church, El Greco wrote commissioned by the priests of the Church of Santo Tome, the painting “The Burial of Count Orgaz.” Many art critics consider it the best work of the great artist.

El Greco House Museum in Toledo:

On the nearby tiny street Calle Samuel Levi (Samuel Levi Street) you can see several more paintings by El Greco - there is an open Artist's House-Museum(Casa Museo de El Greco, Calle Samuel Levi, Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.00; Sun 10.00-14.00, closed Mon.). Historically, this house has nothing to do with the artist: it belonged to the royal treasurer Samuel Levy.

El Greco lived in a mansion nearby that has not survived to this day. At the beginning of the 20th century. The Marquis of Vega-Inclan decided to adapt the Levi's house to house a collection of paintings by El Greco and made a museum there, recreating the setting of 16th-century Toledo. There are no genuine El Greco items, with the exception of paintings, in the house-museum.

Jewish Quarter of Toledo:

Both the Church of Santo Tome and the house museum stand in Juderia ( Juderia) Jewish quarter of Toledo; The Jewish community in the city was one of the richest and most numerous. Two of the eleven medieval synagogues have survived to this day: Transito and Santa Maria la Blanca. Both of them are in the 15th century. were converted into Christian churches.

Synagogue del Transito(Sinagoga del Transito, Calle Samuel Levi, 1366) was built at the expense of Samuel Levi, diplomat and treasurer of King Pedro the Cruel. Behind the simple facade lies a rich interior with a carved cedar wood ceiling inlaid with mother of pearl. The walls are decorated with biblical inscriptions. Currently located here MuseumSephardi. Sephardim are Jews originating from Spain and Arab countries, since Sefarad is the Hebrew name for Spain.

Walk a few blocks along Calle Reyes Catolicos (Reyes Catholicos Street), you will see Synagogue of Santa Maria la Blanca(Sinagoga de Santa Maria la Blanca, 10.00-14.00, 15.30-18.00). The fate of this building is typical for Toledo, the “city of three civilizations”: the building was built in 1180 for a mosque, then it was bought by Jews, significantly rebuilt and turned into the main synagogue of the city. In 1391, during a pogrom, several Jews were killed in it, the interior was burned, and then the former synagogue was used as a barracks and a wood warehouse. In 1405, the building was transferred to the Knights of the Order of Calatrava, who established a Christian church in it. Now the mosque-synagogue-church has been completely restored. Note the carved column capitals. Apart from the three chapels in the front part of the temple, which appeared in the 16th century, the building still retains the appearance in which it was at the time of its transformation into a church.

Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes

At the end of Calle Reyes Catolicos stands the Franciscan Monastery of San Juan de los Reyes(Monasterio de San Juan de los Reyes, apx. X. Guas, 1492, 10.00-20.00). It was founded by kings Isabella and Ferdinand in memory of the victory over Portugal at the Battle of Toro (1476) and was intended as a royal tomb. Therefore, the walls of the main monastery church are decorated with coats of arms and heraldic shields of the kings; however, they themselves are buried in Granada. As with most buildings in Toledo, the monastery is a mixture of Moorish and Gothic styles; The courtyard of the monastery, built in 1504 and decorated with Gothic stone carvings, is especially interesting. On the walls of the courtyard hang the shackles of Christian prisoners released from Moorish captivity by the Catholic kings. In 1808, during the Napoleonic Wars, French troops used the monastery as a barracks, destroyed the sculptures and burned the library; the building was seriously damaged, but was subsequently restored.

Church of San Roman

Having finished exploring the monastery and delving again into the interweaving of narrow (often nameless) streets rising upward towards the cathedral, try to go out to Church of San Roman(Iglesia de San Roman) on Calle San Clemente (San Clemente street). It was built by the Visigoths in the 6th century, then rebuilt by the Mudejars. The temple is an amazing combination of different cultures: the descendants of the Moors painted the walls of the temple in the Romanesque style and erected a large Renaissance dome. Nowadays the temple has a unique Visigothic Museumart(Concilios at Cultura Visigoda, Calle San Roman, Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.30; Sun 10.00-14.00, closed Mon).

Other attractions of Toledo:

If after a walk around Toledo you still have time and energy, then we advise you to go a little north from the museum, to the oldest Toledo Monastery of Santo Domingo el Antigua(Monasterio de Santo Domingo El Antigua, XI, Mon-Sat 11.00-13.30, 16.00-19.00, BC 16.00-19.00), which preserves the works of El Greco, and then along Calle Real (Real street) go to the city gatePuerta del Cambron(Puerta del Cambron, XV), built on the ruins of an ancient Visigothic gate. The name of the gate is associated with the impenetrable thickets of bushes “cambrones” near the walls of the fortress. On the inside of the gate there is an image of St. Leocadia, patroness of Toledo, and in the western part there is a medieval plate with an inscription reminding the guards that there is no entrance fee for the inhabitants of Toledo.

From the gate along Boulevard San Martin (San Martin Blvd.) you can go down to the Tagus - here a Gothic five-arched building is thrown across the river San Martin Bridge(Puente de San Martin). It was washed away by a flood in 1211 and restored two centuries later. One of the bridge towers was built in the 13th century, the other in the 16th century; it is decorated with the coat of arms of Emperor Charles V.

Continuing along the highway on the other side of the river and going up, you will find yourself at an observation deck above the cliff, which offers a breathtaking view of Toledo - all the buildings of the city are visible in full view.

In the northern part of the city, on Avenida de la Reconquista, ruins remain Roman circus- it was one of the largest (13 thousand seats) in the Roman Empire.

Museums of Toledo:

Armed Forces Museum (MuseodelEjercito)

  • Alcazar, Cuesta Carlos V,
  • BT-BC 9.30-14.00, closed Mon.

Museum of Modern Art (Museo Arte Contemporaneo)

  • Calle Bulas,
  • Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.30; Sun 10.00-14.00, closed Mon.

Dukes Art MuseumLerma

(Hospital Tavera, Duque de Lerma)

  • Cardenal Tavera, 2,
  • 10.30-13.30, 15.30-18.00.

Museum Sephardi(Museo Sefardi)

  • Calle Samuel Levi,
  • Tue-Sat 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.00, Sun 10.00-14.00, closed Mon.

Santa Cruz Museum of History and Art

  • Calle Cervantes, 3,
  • Mon 10.00-14.00, 16.00-18.30, Tue-Sat 10.00-18.30, Sun 10.00-14.00.

Museum of the sculptor V. Macho (MuseoVictorioMacho)

  • Plaza Victorio Macho, Mon-Sat
  • 10.00-19.00, Sun 10.00-15.00.

Toledo in literature:

Toledo is a frequent "hero" in Spanish literature. Playwright Tirso de Molina called Toledo “the heart of Spain”, Lope de Vega - “the crown of Castile”, and writer Ramon de Valle Inclan spoke of Toledo as “a magnificent sarcophagus, at the bottom of which lie heroic bones, covered with a shroud.” Many legends and traditions are associated with this city, on the basis of which the plays of Lope de Vega and Cervantes’ “Edifying Novels” were created. The legend of King Alfonso's love for a beautiful Jewish woman became the basis for the play “The Jewess of Toledo” by Grillparzer and the novel “The Spanish Ballad” by L. Feuchtwanger.

“In Toledo itself there lived over twenty thousand Jews and another five thousand outside the city walls, and although no law prescribed this to them, the majority settled in their own quarter, also surrounded by walls with strong gates. Jews have settled in Toledo since time immemorial; The name of the city itself comes from the Hebrew word “toledot” - a number of generations. The first Jews to come here were sent by King Solomon to collect tribute from the barbarians. Jews lived well here almost all the time. But under the Christian Visigoths they had to endure terrible persecution. More fiercely than others, they were persecuted by a certain Julian, one of their own, a native of their own people, who went over to the Christians and was elevated by them to archbishop. He issued increasingly harsh decrees against his former brothers, and in the end he achieved a law according to which anyone who did not accept baptism would be sold into slavery. Then the Jews called the Moors from across the sea and helped them conquer the country. The Moors set up Jewish garrisons in the cities under Jewish generals.”

gastroguru 2017