DIY underwater gun. Do-it-yourself underwater gun: drawings. Do-it-yourself pneumatic underwater gun Make an underwater fishing gun with your own hands

In winter, you have enough free time that you can spend usefully. For example, make it in a home workshop. There are a wide range of modifications that you can make yourself. The article will describe how to make a spring gun with your own hands.

Design of spring underwater guns

The device ejects the harpoon under the influence of the energy of a spring or springs that are in a compressed or extended state.

The design places the handle approximately in the middle of the weapon, which makes it more maneuverable and ensures optimal balance.

Ease of modification ensures a high degree of reliability. Spring spearguns for spearfishing are compact. This is especially true for models in which the spring is stretched and the harpoon is placed inside it when charging. The handle is close to the barrel. These indicators help improve accuracy.

Advantages

The advantages of such weapons include light weight and accuracy, which facilitates the capture of nimble predatory fish.

If you compare a spring gun, the basis of which is compression, with a gun with rubber bands, the result of such a comparison will clearly not be in favor of the latter.

A gun with rubber has twice as many parts as a gun with a spring. Soft rubber bands deteriorate quickly. Fast moving parts (strings and a rubber harpoon) are also ineffective. In terms of combat accuracy, it cannot be compared with spring weapons, since in the latter product the harpoon is located in a long barrel, which serves as a precise guide.

Negative aspects of the product

A spring gun has a high noise level when firing a shot. During the charging process, the spring makes a squeaking sound. To reduce unwanted sounds, it is recommended to wipe the handle with a cloth moistened with glycerin.

It is quite difficult to make a spring underwater gun with your own hands. This is explained by the fact that it is difficult to obtain stainless steel to make a spring. The heat treatment process of this part is also labor-intensive.

What materials will be needed?

To make a gun with your own hands you will need:

  • A metal wire with a diameter of 2 mm and a length of 12-16 m. The wire will become a spring.
  • Duralumin tube. Its internal diameter can vary from 12.5 to 13 mm. The tube will become the basis for the gun barrel. Craftsmen often use brass, which is almost not susceptible to oxidation in water.
  • To make a trunk, you can use a regular ski stick.
  • Two plates of the same shape made of plastic, the thickness of which is 10-12 mm. The handle of the gun is made of plastic. The material for it can also be nylon, vinyl plastic, beech, oak and aluminum.
  • A metal rod with a diameter of 6-8 mm. It will serve as the basis of the harpoon. You can also use stainless steel or silver.

In order to make a spring one, you will need perseverance and patience, since the work is painstaking. The process will require a lot of effort and time, but the result will exceed expectations.

Product dimensions

The average spring gun made at home can be no more than 900 mm long. The distance from the hook to the hole must be at least 75 mm, and the weight of the product must be 1.5 kg.

Homemade device power

With proper observance of all the rules, it is possible to achieve the fact that the product will have a sufficiently large shot force to hit fish of medium size and light weight. The operating radius will be approximately 3 m.

Making a spring

Many people are interested in making a piston gun with their own hands.

Before processing the wire, it should be heated to 300 ºС and cooled to room temperature. This technology helps to achieve spring strength and resistance to bending. The spring is heated and bent so that its ends are perpendicular to the axis.

You should start assembling an underwater gun at home with a spring. It is the most difficult part to complete, and its production will require the help of professionals. The part is made by a turner on a machine, then subjected to heat treatment. It is coated with an anti-rust coating.

The spring diameter should be 12 mm and the pitch should be 2 mm. Its length depends on the length of the trunk. Considering that the working force of the spring is aimed at compression, its length in this form should be 10 cm longer than the barrel. After firing a number of shots, the spring will shorten by 1/5. The initial length is taken taking into account this deformation.

Clip

The clip is one of the components of the underwater gun. Its base should be brass, the thickness of which is 1 mm. Holes are drilled on the sides. It is better to cut them out after bending the workpiece.

When assembling the clip, you will need to solder it to the barrel. The parts should be adjusted according to the slots and holes.

Trunk

The barrel length should be 600-750 mm. This length is optimal for hunting in bodies of water of any type.

Threads are cut at both ends of the pipe. Then a groove for the sear is cut in it. Its length should be 150-170 mm. Such a groove will allow you to regulate the firing force of the gun by simply moving the handle along the barrel. Holes are made in the trunk to allow water to quickly escape.

The plug and muzzle are machined from duralumin. A hole is drilled in the plug, into which a harpoon is then inserted to simplify transportation. When the barrel is ready, you can begin manufacturing the starting mechanism and handle.

Handle and trigger mechanism

Holes equal to the diameter of the barrel are drilled in the plates clamped in a vice. Then the contours of the handle are cut out on the plate. On each plate, using a cutter or file, a cut is made for the trigger mechanism, the depth of which is 3.5 mm.

Both halves of the handle should be connected to the barrel and pressed with screws. In front of the handle, a stop ring is attached to the barrel using a clamping screw. This manipulation is carried out to prevent the handle from sliding along the barrel. The assembly of the gun handle is completed by installing the trigger mechanism.

The release mechanism includes a sear, a fuse and a spring. The manufacture of these components is not particularly difficult and is carried out on a metalworking machine.

Making a harpoon

The harpoon is the main part of the weapon. It is made from durable steel rod. Its diameter should be 5 mm. At the main end for installation, cut an M5 thread and cut a hole for the line and harpoon. The rod should be hardened in a furnace. In addition, a sleeve is machined for the harpoon. It is better to use stainless steel for this purpose.

The harpoon should have a diameter of 6-8 mm. A sleeve slides along the harpoon, to which a line is attached. The sleeve must rest against the shank. It cushions against the fluoroplastic ring. The shank, which secures the harpoon, is machined in the form of a collet.

The tip has a simple design. Additionally, a flag is made to hold the fish.

The harpoon tip must have a triangular or tetrahedral, but not a cone-shaped sharpening. Such arrows hit fish better and cut scales easily.

Line releaser

This is the last part of the gun. It can be made from steel strip. The finished plate is attached to the barrel plug with a pair of screws.

When winding, the line is placed under the plate. At the same time, it is tied to the front sight. During the shot, the line easily comes out from under the plate and unwinds.

Making the liner

The insert in the structure is designed to secure flat return springs. As a rule, its basis is textolite. It is glued to the holder, and after that the springs are glued to it.

Rivets

The spring gun is assembled using rivets. Their basis should be strong steel. To reel in a harpoon line, a special hook is required, which is made of brass or stainless steel. The hook is soldered to the base of the barrel. Springs in the fuse are usually used as a stopper for the two main positions. The base is steel, the thickness of which is 0.5 mm. Usually they use alloy grade 65 or carbon grade U8, U10, U10 A.

Safety regulations

The spring gun described in this article should only be loaded in a body of water. When going ashore, the weapon must be unloaded. The shot is fired if the target is clearly visible and the water is clean and transparent.

Using the product

When everything is ready, you should thread the harpoon into the barrel so that it rests against the stop, then press the spring against the sear until it clicks. The sear is directed upward, and the barrel is pressed against the bushing. At the trigger moment, the spring performs translational movements and then returns to its initial position. When the angler presses the trigger mechanism, the sear moves into the groove and makes room for the spring sleeve. By expanding, the spring helps push out the harpoon.

Spearfishing is song and excitement! At the same time, you don’t need to have permits, register your underwater gun, or have other problems. Spearfishing is equivalent to fishing with a fishing rod.

The only equipment needed for spearfishing is a mask, fins and a speargun. The latter is the most expensive in spearfishing equipment.

And it is precisely the underwater gun that I propose to make with my own hands.

Some of the parts of such a gun will need to be turned on a machine, but you can always negotiate with a turner and pay with fish from your catch. So you can make an underwater gun with your own hands almost free of charge!

Increasing the power and sharpness of combat in this design of an underwater gun is achieved by increasing the working stroke of the rubber bands. For this purpose, rollers are installed at the end of the gun, through which the cords are thrown, and the cords themselves are located under the gun.

This arrangement has a number of significant advantages over a conventional “rubber” gun. Firstly, the increase in power is achieved here without lengthening the gun. Of no small importance is the fact that you can take as a basis a simple serial gun with rubber bands, which is modernized according to the given drawing. Calculations and practice of spearfishing have shown that the working stroke of the rods (depending on the elasticity coefficient of the rubber used) increases by 30-70%. At the same time, combat accuracy increases significantly. The gun is also very easy to use - after a shot, the rubber bands do not hang loosely, as happens in conventional guns, and do not interfere with the manipulation of fish and harpoon line.

When manufactured independently, the barrel is made from a duralumin (D16T) tube with a wall thickness of 1.0-1.5 mm. The handle and trigger mechanism can be taken from any serial "rubber" gun. The length of the gun is selected depending on the physical characteristics of the athlete. Its maximum size should be such that, resting the handle of the gun on your stomach, you can reach the tips of the rubber bands (part D).

The general structure of the gun is clear from the drawing. Parts A, B, C, D are made of D16T duralumin. The guide sleeve is made of stainless steel. When assembling the gun, between the harpoon shank and the bushing, a rigid spiral spring with an internal diameter equal to the diameter of the harpoon should be placed on the harpoon. This spring (5 - 6 turns is enough) serves as a shock absorber, eliminating damage to the rear section of the bushing from impacts on the shank.
A reliable shank that creates virtually no additional resistance is made as follows. Stepping back 5-6 mm from the rear end of the harpoon, drill a hole D 4 mm, perpendicular to the axis of the harpoon (see Fig.). Then bore this hole with a file to an oval and press into it an oval rod made of hard steel, previously turned into a very flat cone. After this, the rod must be cut off, leaving protrusions on both sides of the harpoon equal in height to the thickness of the walls of the guide sleeve.

To make the bow connecting the tips of the rubber bands, steel spring wire D 4-5 mm is used. The ends of a piece of such wire of the required length are annealed and bent into rings. Before bending the second ring onto the wire, you must put both caps on the tips. After this, the wire in the place where it adheres to the harpoon is moistened, giving it an oval shape for better fit into the cutout on the harpoon.

Fastening rubber bands (especially solid ones) still causes difficulties; Here we propose a fastening method that has been tested for many years and has proven itself even under conditions of extreme stretching of rubber. To securely fasten the ends of the rubber, the holes in the tips must have the profile shown in Fig. The minimum bore diameter must be equal to the diameter of the rubber in the extremely stretched state (in this case, 8 mm).

A noose-loop made of durable nylon cord is placed on the end of the rubber, which is first threaded into the tip and tightened tightly (see Fig.). Having stretched the rubber as much as possible, cut off its excess protruding from the tightened loop. Then, without reducing the tension, wet the end of the rubber and 2-3 cm of the cord behind the loop with a thick soap solution. Moving the tip along the cord, pull the loop into it along with the cord.

To fix the tip, a strip of rubber 4-5 mm wide, cut from an elastic medical bandage, is wound onto the stretched cord. Winding is done with maximum tension on the strip and should have the form of a roller with a cone similar in shape to the profile of the hole in the tip (see). To fix the end of the rubber strip, the last 3-4 turns should be wound onto the flat part of the cone. After this, without reducing the tension force of the cord itself and the winding tape, move the tip onto the roller. In the same way, the opposite ends of the strands are secured in part A.

The rollers for the muzzle assembly are turned on a lathe from D16T duralumin. For better sliding on the axle, bronze bushings should be pressed into them. The axis for the rollers must be made of stainless steel. To prevent the rollers from jumping off, holes for cotter pins are drilled at the ends of the axle. The inner diameter of the roller groove is selected based on the thickness of the rubber bands and the center distance of the barrel and the harpoon inserted into the gun. In any case, it is necessary to strive to ensure that the axes of the harpoon and both strands on a loaded gun are in the same plane.

As a material for a harpoon, it is best to use elastic grades of stainless steel (rod D 7 mm). If ordinary steel is used, then the harpoon must be chrome-plated or nickel-plated, since even a slight coating of oxides significantly reduces the sharpness of the gun’s action. A harpoon line (line D 0.8 mm) is attached to an earring on the guide sleeve and to a protruding eyelet in the front of the muzzle.

The rubber tension can be adjusted by moving the lower tie rods along the barrel (part A). The position of part B should be such that after the shot the strands do not jump off the rollers.

With a charging force of 30 kg, the killing distance with a single tip is 5.5 m. The free flight of the harpoon under water is 7 m.

Source: book - "Underwater hunting. / Directory" author Khorkhordin E. G. "Ruchenkin Publishing House", 2001. - 320 p. Use for storing keys and spare parts. But it’s better to put a bottle of vodka in such a glove compartment of a snowmobile made by yourself. In case you break the chain. It’s difficult in the cold without vodka, but you can live with vodka.

VLADISLAV comments:

ORIGINAL SOLUTION.

Sanya comments:

Can you provide more detailed diagrams?

Big Boss comments:

I think it's interesting not only for me

Star comments:

Sasha comments:

I'll do this and go whale hunting

Alexandr comments:

Where can I get rubber and a mechanic? How can I make this gun shorter? The problem with the weight of the arrow, how to get a trident...

Alexander comments:

How can I get a larger drawing, otherwise it’s difficult to figure out.

Alexander comments:

E-mail; [email protected]

Igor comments:

When the axis rotates in a bronze bushing
When the strands move, a sound may occur that will scare away the fish.

This design of a homemade speargun not very difficult, easy and with good combat power. Numerous experiments and refinements gave the desired result.

The figure shows a section of a speargun for spearfishing.

Harpoon - from a steel bar Ø 5 mm ("silver"). An M5 thread is cut at one of its ends and a hole for the line is drilled. After machining, the harpoon is hardened. The sleeve - a guide for the harpoon - is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

The barrel of a speargun is a 12x1 mm pipe. Material - brass or stainless steel. For free passage of water when firing or charging, holes Ø 4-5 mm are drilled over the entire surface of the barrel in increments of about 10 mm. The piston is machined from stainless steel or duralumin.

By the way, both the bushings and the piston can be made from 10x2.5 mm tube sections, which completely eliminates turning work in the manufacture of a gun.

The mainspring is wound from OBC wire Ø 1.6 mm. Initially, a wire is wound onto a rod Ø 6 mm coil to coil, which is then stretched to obtain the required pitch - 4.5 mm. So that there are no residual deformations during the processing of the spring, the wire must be released, that is, heated to about 300 ° C and cooled to room temperature. The end coils, after red-hot, must be bent in such a way that their plane is perpendicular to the axis of the spring.

The speargun clip is cut from brass or stainless steel sheet 1 mm thick. It is advisable to cut holes on its side surfaces by inserting a plank of a suitable size after the workpiece is bent. This will avoid errors in the location of the holes on the right and left cheeks of the clip. When assembling, the clip is soldered to the barrel, focusing on the position of the slot.

The hook is intended for winding a harpoon line on it. It is sawn from brass or stainless steel and soldered to the end of the barrel.

Textolite insert, it is designed for fastening flat return springs. The liner is riveted to the cage, the springs are also riveted to the liner. It is desirable to use steel rivets, in extreme cases, you can use ordinary nails.

Fuse springs designed to fix the fuse in two stable positions. The material is a steel tape 0.5 mm thick grade 65G or U10A. It is most expedient to attach the springs to the cage with screws or rivets.

The pull for winding the line is a piece of steel wire 2 mm thick. One of its ends is bent into a ring, with which the rod is attached to the trigger.

Air guns are very popular among spearfishers, but making such a weapon requires many different parts and is very difficult to make. But there are also simpler designs, and we will tell you how you can make a spring gun for spearfishing with your own hands. Such weapons are easy to make and quite simple to use.

Necessary materials

Before making a gun, you need to prepare the following materials:

  • metal wire. It should be between twelve and sixteen meters long and 2 mm in diameter. We will make a spring from the wire;
  • duralumin tube. The gun barrel will be made from it; this material does not rust in water and is very good for underwater weapons. The inner diameter of the tube is from 12.5 to 13 mm. If you can’t find a tube, an ordinary ski pole will do;
  • two identical plastic plates. Their thickness should be from 10 to 12 mm. The handle of the gun will be made of plastic, but you can also take plates from nylon, beech, oak and aluminum;
  • metal rod for a harpoon. Its diameter is from 6 to 8 mm. The material can be stainless steel or silver.

Making a spring

If you are wondering how to make an underwater gun with your own hands, then its manufacture begins with a spring. Here you will need the help of a specialist, because it needs to be done on a lathe. After manufacturing, the spring should be thermally treated and coated against corrosion. The length of the spring depends on the length of the barrel and if we take into account that it works in compression, then the length of the spring should be 100 mm longer.

Manufacturing of other elements of underwater guns

  1. Trunk. It is recommended to make the barrel length from 600 to 750 mm. Take a duralumin tube and cut a thread on both ends. Then you need to cut a groove in the tube with a length of 150 to 170 mm for the sear. Next, drill holes in the barrel, water will flow out of it quickly and easily. The muzzle and plug must be machined from duralumin. Drill a hole in the plug; a harpoon will be inserted into it for easier transportation.
  2. Trigger and handle. Clamp the plates in a vice and drill holes in them equal to the diameter of the barrel. Then you need to cut out the contours of the handle on the plates. Now take a file and make a 3.5 mm deep cut on each plate for the trigger mechanism; you can also use a cutter for this. Connect the two halves of the handle on the barrel and press them with screws. Using a clamping screw, attach a thrust ring to the barrel in front of the handle, then the handle will not slide along the barrel. Assembly of the weapon handle ends with the installation of the trigger mechanism, which includes the trigger, sear, spring and safety catch. To manufacture such parts, you will need to perform simple plumbing work. For greater strength, it is recommended to harden the sear.
  3. Harpoon. Homemade spearguns will not be useful without a harpoon. Its diameter ranges from 6 to 8 mm; a sleeve to which the line is attached will slide along the harpoon. The bushing should rest against the shank and absorb shock from the fluoroplastic ring. The shank that fixes the harpoon is made in the form of a collet. The harpoon tip should be sharpened not to a cone, but to three or even four edges. Sharp edges pierce prey well, easily cutting fish scales. To hold the fish, you need to make an additional flag on the tip.
  4. The last part of your gun is the line releaser, it is cut from a strip of steel. Attach the finished plate to the barrel plug with two screws. When winding, the line is placed under the plate, and at the same time it must be tied to the front sight. When fired, the line will easily come out from under the plate and unwind freely.

Novice spearfishers need to know how to make a homemade speargun. This can be done even without special skills, professional tools and precision equipment. There are several key varieties of an underwater gun, which differ primarily in the way they throw a damaging projectile - a harpoon. As an element that gives the striking projectile acceleration and communicates the energy necessary to overcome the resistance of water, a spring, a special rubber band, vacuum and pneumatics can act. In addition, hydropneumatic, powder, gas guns and even double-barreled shotguns are produced industrially and made by numerous home-made craftsmen. But since for the manufacture of most varieties it is necessary to have experience in such work, a variety of materials and drawings to maintain exact dimensions, you should know how to make the simplest home-made spear gun - an improved version of the so-called Hawaiian.

Novice spearfishing enthusiasts will be interested in a way to make a homemade gun without special skills, professional tools and precision equipment.

Appeared, as the name implies, on the islands of Oceania, the Hawaiians had an extremely simple device. Initially, they consisted of a pole with a harpoon tip and a rubber band with a diameter of 10-15 mm, rolled into a circle. Having hooked the rubber band on the thumb, the hunter with the back end of the pole pulled the rope back to the elbow, after which he grabbed the pole closer to the middle with the brush. After that, it remained only to aim and unclench the brush, so that the compressing rubber band would forcefully push the harpoon towards the target. However, the described method of catching fish is not very convenient for hunting, since keeping the harpoon in the “cocked” state requires constant arm tension. This shortcoming can be easily corrected without complicating the design in principle, but only by equipping the Hawaiian with a home-made trigger mechanism. Now about how exactly to make a gun for hunting under water - extremely easy to manufacture, effective and at the same time convenient to use.

In addition to sporting interest, making such a homemade product also makes economic sense, since a specialized hunting store will gladly offer you the simplest harpoon gun for the price of a crossbow. In addition, a tool made to your taste will allow you to enjoy both processes - manufacturing and hunting itself. Before you make your own speargun, you will need to stock up on the following:

  • an aluminum tube with an outer diameter of 10-15 mm and a length of 150 cm;
  • PVC tube 25-30 cm long, the inner diameter of which is slightly larger than the outer diameter of the aluminum tube;
  • rectangular steel skewer;
  • M4 bolt 20-25 mm long with a nut, metal and rubber washers;
  • M4 bolt 40-50 mm long;
  • a steel rectangle measuring 40 × 15 × 2 mm;
  • three self-tapping screws 70-100 mm long;
  • fishing rubber;
  • an annular rubber band;
  • kapron thread;
  • cutting boards with a thickness of at least 20 mm;
  • epoxy glue.

Also, in order to make a gun for hunting aquatic creatures with your own hands, you will need the following tools: a screwdriver, pliers, a hammer, a chisel, a vise, wrenches, a rasp, a drill, hacksaws for wood and metal.


In addition to sporting interest, making such a homemade product also makes economic sense, since a specialized hunting store will gladly offer you the simplest harpoon gun for the price of a crossbow

Separate a fragment 20 cm long from the skewer, clamp it in a vise so that 10-12 mm sticks out of the sponges, and bend the protruding section at a right angle. Having removed the resulting L-shaped part from the vise, bend it in the direction opposite to the short part of the letter “G” so that an arc is obtained - a sector of an imaginary circle with a diameter of 50 cm. Drill a hole of 4 mm in the middle of the part. In the center of the short tube, drill 2 opposite holes - with diameters of 5 and 4 mm and 2 - with a diameter of 5 mm 1 cm from the edge. Also, in a short tube at a distance equal to the length between the hole and the bend of the L-shaped part, make a transverse slot measuring 8 × 2.5 mm. A centimeter from the edge of the aluminum tube, drill 2 opposite holes of 8 mm, and then make a transverse slot measuring 8 × 2.5 mm in the center of the tube. From fishing rubber, make a tourniquet 1 cm thick, 40-45 cm long and rewind it tightly with nylon thread every 5 cm. From the board, cut out a round cork corresponding to the inner diameter of the long pipe and drill a longitudinal hole of 4 mm in it.

Gallery: homemade speargun (25 photos)























How to make a speargun (video)

Shotgun assembly

Now, from the set prepared in this way, it is necessary to assemble a gun. To do this, fasten the L-shaped part with a short M4 bolt to the PVC pipe, inserting a rubber washer between them so that the short part of the L-shaped part falls into the cut in the pipe wall. The bolt head should not protrude above the inner surface of the tube wall, otherwise it will interfere with shooting. Additionally, secure the L-shaped part in the area of ​​the cut with an annular rubber band.

Outwardly, this springy structure vaguely resembles a bicycle handbrake lever and simultaneously functions as a trigger and a sear - a part that serves to cock the weapon.

First, you need to cut out a wooden cork, after lubricating it with epoxy glue, insert it into the end hole of the aluminum tube. Then, weld 3 self-tapping screws on one side and an M4 bolt on the other to the metal plate in such a way that something like Neptune's trident is obtained, where the M4 bolt is the shaft of a trident. Lubricate the M4 bolt with epoxy. The resulting trident should be screwed into the hole in the wooden cork. Homemade harpoon is ready.

The aluminum tube must be inserted into the PVC tube, and a rubber band must be passed through the holes drilled in the aluminum tube with a diameter of 8 mm. The free ends of the bundle are inserted into holes with a diameter of 5 mm, drilled in a PVC tube, and carefully fixed there with a nylon thread. So, without having special qualifications, in a maximum of 1 hour you can make with your own hands an excellent attribute of outdoor activities - an underwater gun.

Do-it-yourself speargun (video)

Trial

To tension the rubber and prepare the gun for a shot, it is necessary to move the PVC tube, which acts as a cocking handle, forward to the harpoon tip, until a characteristic click indicates that the metal part that has fallen into the slots of both tubes has fixed the gun in the cocked state. Now pressing on the protruding arc of the metal part will disengage it from the harpoon and a shot will occur. Tests carried out in water show that from a distance of about 1 m, the harpoon confidently breaks through the wall of a plastic bottle filled with water, and it is quite difficult to remove it back because of the threads on the screws.

Conclusion

This is the simplest scheme of underwater weapons and the shortest instruction on how to make a speargun with your own hands. In addition to the method described, there are many more concepts and manufacturing methods. You can make, for example, a pneumatic gun in which the harpoon is driven by compressed air, a spring gun, etc.

You should be aware that homemade means for fishing under water, like any weapon, require careful adherence to safety rules when handling. There are more than enough cases of careless wounding of oneself with this weapon, and the time spent on recovery will be irretrievably lost for fishing, hunting and other healthy hobbies.

gastroguru 2017